almost afraid to ask, but got a d60 question

[Shreds]

http://www.dynatrac.com/html/pro_rock_60.html

I'm looking to upgrade my axles in the next couple of months. I'm thinking of going with the Dynatrac Pro-Rock 60's front and rear on my TJ. These are fairly expensive, so I'm wondering if this is the right way to go. I'm running an Atlas T-case on stock D30/35 (with lowered gears) right now, and it's making me a little nervous when I'm crawling or mudding and have to step heavy on the gas. I'm also looking forward to a disk brake conversion...

I suspect a 350 V8 is somewhere in my distant future as well.

Thoughts?

-- Shreds

[Crash]

Call jason and trevor at S&N. I can't find my phone right now to give you the #, but somebody has it or do a search...

[Shreds]

I got the number off the web site. Thank you "Girls of SEMA"... :redneck:

[CRAZY S]

You can buy both high pinion 60's with gears lockers and trail ready beadlocks from Trevor right now for the price of one of those pro rock's. I wouldn't think twice about going and picking those things up.

[xBabyJesus]

I agree, buy shawn's axles and have S&N cut&plate the housings for more clearance. Pro-rock 60's on the cheap are cooool. Pick up a set of Yukon or Superiors and CTMs for spares and you're money in the bank.

-J

[Csnyder]

Don't forget you'd also need to swap your existing driver side front output Atlas w/ a passenger side version. ;) Prolly re-route your exhaust too.

Regardless, those axles and beadlocks are a smokin' deal. :eek:

- Chris

[CRAZY S]

you are correct!;) I forgot this is for a TJ. My bad.

[Not-Jobless]

Originally posted by xBabyJesus
I agree, buy shawn's axles and have S&N cut&plate the housings for more clearance. Pro-rock 60's on the cheap are cooool. Pick up a set of Yukon or Superiors and CTMs for spares and you're money in the bank.

-J

Why would you need CTM's and Superior axles if you're running 60's :confused:

That's just wasted money, unless you need the bling bling factor to make your shizzy cool :rolleyes:

[xBabyJesus]

Originally posted by Csnyder
Don't forget you'd also need to swap your existing driver side front output Atlas w/ a passenger side version. ;) Prolly re-route your exhaust too.

Regardless, those axles and beadlocks are a smokin' deal. :eek:

- Chris

Or, you know, have the housing re-tubed the other way around, and just swap sides with the shafts. Still be money ahead over dynarape.

Oh, and why get superiors and CTMs? Just because I'm assuming if he's considering $8k+ dynarape axles, he probably wants to eliminate the chance of breaking. You could have some CTMs and superiors in the toolbox and still be money ahead, swap them in when you rebuild in a couple years. Or, do the Yukon 4340's for a little less coin...

-J

[Csnyder]

Originally posted by xBabyJesus
Or, you know, have the housing re-tubed the other way around, and just swap sides with the shafts. Still be money ahead over dynarape.

Of course that could be done Johnny. The diff could also be swapped to the driver side, and the shafts could all be cut/splined (front & rear) if he didn't want full width. Or a multitude of other changes. My original point was that even though he might come ahead after doing that, it wouldn't be a bolt-in affair. Once again, that's not to say that the axles/beadlocks aren't a great deal.

I had posted my comments for the benefit of Shreds, not for you. :finger:

- Chris

[Shreds]

Thanks everyone, the S&N axles & beadlocks look like a great option. I'm not sure making those kinds of drive line adjustments are in the realm of posiblity for me personally. Would swapping to 44's or a 9" be easier? I wanted to go with 60's because I've heard they are practically indestructable and I'm not gentle with my Jeep.

-- Shreds

[Jeepdude_Jay]

You were already considering Dynatracs. You could probably have S&N swap tubes on the front 60 and have them installed for the money you would have spent for just the bling axles.

[Csnyder]

Originally posted by Shreds
Thanks everyone, the S&N axles & beadlocks look like a great option. I'm not sure making those kinds of drive line adjustments are in the realm of posiblity for me personally. Would swapping to 44's or a 9" be easier? I wanted to go with 60's because I've heard they are practically indestructable and I'm not gentle with my Jeep.

-- Shreds

I think your best bet would be to get in touch w/ Jason and Trevor at S&N Fab and let them know what your needs are. Whether you decide to buy those existing 60's, or go another route, they'd be able to handle the whole job end-to-end.

If you haven't already seen Brett's TJ and the work they put into it, take a look at http://www.sn-fab.com/projects/Brett/index2.html .

Just my $0.02.

- Chris

[xBabyJesus]

Originally posted by Csnyder
Of course that could be done Johnny. The diff could also be swapped to the driver side, and the shafts could all be cut/splined (front & rear) if he didn't want full width. Or a multitude of other changes. My original point was that even though he might come ahead after doing that, it wouldn't be a bolt-in affair. Once again, that's not to say that the axles/beadlocks aren't a great deal.

I had posted my comments for the benefit of Shreds, not for you. :finger:

- Chris

Well then I'm glad you agree with me (?) :confused: :confused: :D

[Csnyder]

Originally posted by xBabyJesus
Well then I'm glad you agree with me (?) :confused: :confused: :D

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: