Tie Rod & Drag Link Fabrication

[Csnyder]

Progress on my HP D44 is going along slowly but surely. One of the few items I have left to figure out are my steering linkages - more specifically, how I'll attach the drag link to the tie rod.

For the tie rod, I plan on using 1.5" DOM (0.250 wall) tube w/ welded inserts and GM one ton TRE's (7/18"-18). Same for the drag link (at least the tubing). The only minor detail I'm unsure of is how to attach the drag link to the tie rod. To keep my drag link and track bar aligned, I doubt I'll be able to use a TRE like this:

http://www.partsmikeparts.com/Drag_TRE.jpg

Since I'll need the two linkages to look basically like this (drag link mounted farther inboard):

http://www.jeepthrills.org/Images/SteeringLinkages.gif

Would a 1/4" welded tab and a 3/4" heim be sufficient to connect the two linkages? Maybe double-shear? My rig still sees lots of street miles so safety is a priority.

Sorry for the long-winded message. Thanks in advance for any info. :D

- Chris

[Ben W]

Instead of a tab and heim, make a thick "tab" and ream it for a TRE.

[Jeepmauler]

Two tab, double sheer works great with a 3/4 heim.Run that drag link as far out on the tie rod as possible to keep the drag link the flattest. There's the whole morality issue of runnin home fabbed junk on the street,but thats yer pill to swallow.

[Ben W]

Originally posted by jeepmauler
Two tab, double sheer works great with a 3/4 heim.Run that drag link as far out on the tie rod as possible to keep the drag link the flattest. There's the whole morality issue of runnin home fabbed junk on the street,but thats yer pill to swallow.

Just curious, but what is the advantage of a heim over a TRE?

[carnuck]

check out the center link for full size Jeeps.

[Jeepmauler]

Originally posted by Ben W
Just curious, but what is the advantage of a heim over a TRE?

IMO,it is alot easier for the common guy to work with a heim in single or double shear than properly drill a taper for a TRE.For street use the TRE's in proper application are superior,but fer a trail rig the heims are easier to engineer and fab for the layman.

[88yj]

i used a tie rod like in your first pic...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/p318a2f510419b4311d92ccc332f3375a/fbe726fe.jpg

[88yj]

i also used the 1.5 .25" wall dom and inserts from avlanche/posion spyder, nice pieces.

[Havok]

Originally posted by 88yj
i used a tie rod like in your first pic...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/p318a2f510419b4311d92ccc332f3375a/fbe726fe.jpg
That's what mine looks like, only Toyota tie-rod ends. works great. and I just have to carry one of each for a spare and all is good.

[MonkeyMagic]

What about something like this from Spyder Customs:
http://www.spydercustoms.com/index2.html

[Csnyder]

Originally posted by 88yj
i used a tie rod like in your first pic...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid65/p318a2f510419b4311d92ccc332f3375a/fbe726fe.jpg

Would be nice to be able to use that setup, just not sure how bad the bumpsteer would be since my trackbar wouldn't be following the same arc as the draglink, and I'd like to not have to re-do the whole trackbar for now. :( Guess I'm just gonna have to wait until I get to the point of building the linkages, and actually being able to see exactly how things will line up...

Thanks for the input guys. :D :beer:

- Chris

[Nobody]

I made my own using the cheby ends. Works great. If your track bar is at a reasonable angle, you shouldn't get any bump steer.

There's a little more to it than making the drag link and track bar angles the same. While this generally gets things close enough, technically they should have different angles since they travel different arcs and have different mounting points.

I recommend you use the cheby TRE's. You want your drag link and track bar as long as possible, and as level as practical.

.....and you'll need to get hold of a reamer to ream out the passenger TRE

http://home.earthlink.net/~mattsara/bb/steeringlinkage.jpg

[Csnyder]

Originally posted by Nobody
I made my own using the cheby ends. Works great. If your track bar is at a reasonable angle, you shouldn't get any bump steer.

There's a little more to it than making the drag link and track bar angles the same. While this generally gets things close enough, technically they should have different angles since they travel different arcs and have different mounting points.

I recommend you use the cheby TRE's. You want your drag link and track bar as long as possible, and as level as practical.

.....and you'll need to get hold of a reamer to ream out the passenger TRE

Hey Matt,

I'd definitely like to use the Chevy TRE's all around if possible as opposed to heims, simply because they so readily available.

I looked more at my current trackbar angle tonight, and I think I'll try the setup like you have and see how it works. I can deal w/ some bumpsteer, as long as it's not too obnoxious. ;)

- Chris

[mark]

There's lots of sorces for having the rods built...

first person that comes to mind is EBSteve on this board.... lives in S Everett. He makes TR or DL's out of DOM for like $50 a pop, drilled and tapped, no inserts.


I got my reamer and taps from him, If I didn't have a hook up for the rods, I would have had him make them for me.


S&N can also hook you up, as can lots of others.



Havn't heard of many instances of inserts failing, but I like the tapped idea better :)

[xBabyJesus]

I'm running a welded tab with single-shear and a 3/4" heim. Given my limited street miles, I'm just going to keep an eye on them. If somene comes up with a reamer, I might switch over the the chebby TRE's, are you volunteering to pick one up? :D

-J

[Csnyder]

Originally posted by xBabyJesus
I'm running a welded tab with single-shear and a 3/4" heim. Given my limited street miles, I'm just going to keep an eye on them. If somene comes up with a reamer, I might switch over the the chebby TRE's, are you volunteering to pick one up? :D

-J

I'm not volunteering to pick one up. :finger: At this point I plan on picking up all of these TRE's...

http://www.partsmikeparts.com/Image22.jpg

... then buying the inserts from S&N and building the linkages myself.

We could make your existing setup double-shear w/out too much hassle, though. :D

- Chris

[Nobody]

This site has some pretty good illustrations on steering geometry. Take note these change depending on whether the steering gear is mounted inside or outside of the frame.

http://bulletproofsteering.com/geometry.html

[Csnyder]

Interesting link - thanks Matt. :D

- Chris