View Full Version : chev 383 stroker parts
impish
01-21-2006, 04:43 PM
have 3 chev 400's torn down, have parts for your 383 chev stroker project ,crank, balancer, rods, flexplates for auto trans and the 400 oil pump shafts, $150 a set,
have a 2 bolt 350 block with main caps for the rebuild. might have a second one coming. $50
have the longer 350 5.7" rods availiable. $40 set
upndair
01-29-2006, 07:46 PM
have 3 chev 400's torn down, have parts for your 383 chev stroker project ,crank, balancer, rods, flexplates for auto trans and the 400 oil pump shafts, $150 a set,
have a 2 bolt 350 block with main caps for the rebuild. might have a second one coming. $50
have the longer 350 5.7" rods availiable. $40 set
I'm interested in a set.
What else needs to be done to make a 350 a stroker? I've got an RV cam, nice intake and headers already. I take this are used parts?
impish
02-01-2006, 07:50 PM
basically the whole reciprotaing assembly- crank, flexplate/flywheel, balancer, rods pistons...400 rods are shorter than 350 rods, the longer the rods the more rpm capability i have some 350 sets also for that, when buying pistonsyou need to specify pistons for a 400 stroke and which rods, and the 400's have a diffrent oil pump shaft, the crank will hit a 350 pump shaft wierd,
i use the 400 blocks with all racing stuff in my circle track car so i dont need any of the stock stuff...
the cam my be ok they do have performance grinds just for 383 to take advantage of the longer stroke.
i have it all for you.
upndair
02-01-2006, 08:18 PM
So school me a bit on this. The 400 ci engine has a shorter rod, which allows it to have a a longer stroke when put in a 350 ci engine with a stroker crank? Why would a new flexplate be required, I happen to have one new one on the motor and a spare in the garage right now. I double clicked when ordering, what a dummy!
Are the pistons any different than the stock 350 ones? What is the difference?
If I read this correctly the longer rods (like those in the 350) are capable higher RPMs than the longer rods found in the 400. Is that not a good thing? Why would I then want shorter rods that can't handle the higher RPMS. It may just have been typed in wrong but it seems confusing.
BTW, I hope you don't mind edumucating me on this a little. I'd rather find a home grown set like this than pay out the butt for an aftermarket setup.
impish
02-01-2006, 09:39 PM
ok you are confused-
chevy put shorter rods 5.5 inch because of the longer stroke 3.75inch in the 400 because the deck heighth is the same on all chev small blocks 350's and smaller have longer rods 5.7 inch 350 has the 3.48 stroke.
the diffrent balancer and flexplate is required because the 400 is externally balanced like the 454 big block, 350's are internally balanced, You can make a 400 crank internally balanced and use the 350 balancer and flexplate but cost around 3 times as much to balance than they do normally
pistons- the 400 is 4.125 bore- 350 is 4 inch same for the 327. and have diffrent wrist pin heights, So for example if you stuck a 327 piston in a 350 with 350 crank it will stick out the deck about 1/4 inch.
rods- longer rods are better at higher rpms because it lessens the angle the rod has to travel in relation to the piston. the race motors have lengths as long as a big block 6.2 in, or more I run 6 inch racing rods in my 400 and i turn 8400 rpm easy :bounce1: if you ran the 400 rod at 8400 it will go out the side in a hurry. alot of guys run the 350 5.7 inch rods since the 350 had them already, shorter 400 rods will do ok in a street/tow motor.. the only parts you need are new pistons-
so if you were going to the store to get parts for a 400 crank in a 350 motor(383) you need 350 bore pistons suitable with a 3.750 stroke and specify which rods you are using. And the 400 crank will need to be turned down to 350 main bearing size, rod bearing size is same as other small block chevs,
if you have any more questions feel free to ask
upndair
02-01-2006, 09:57 PM
So what I want it a moderately built motor. I think right now it's pushing a little over 300hp, with the build that's been done on it. I don't have the details but the guy I bought it off of had it built at a race shop, over bored .0030, RV cam, Jacobs 9000 ignition etc. I added the headers, MSD and a few other little things.
I still feel like I'd like to have more power and putting a stroker package in it seems like a good option.
I am working on trying to build an awesome all round vehicle which means in addition to power, I also need reliability and driveability. How's the idle and such of a stroker and are the torque ranges good for a wheeling rig?
impish
02-01-2006, 10:21 PM
i'm not sure what you should do with it- with the stroker you will need new pistons, and another bore job . it's possble a set of .030 over stroker pistons will work in the block you have now, may be better to get another 350 block to bore the 383 pistons accordingly and transfer everything else on to it and sell the 350 short block??
noexcuses
02-03-2006, 04:58 AM
i'm not sure what you should do with it- with the stroker you will need new pistons, and another bore job . it's possble a set of .030 over stroker pistons will work in the block you have now, may be better to get another 350 block to bore the 383 pistons accordingly and transfer everything else on to it and sell the 350 short block??
Before you go and have it bored, check and make sure that it needs bored, you can get by with just honing the cylinders if the bore is still in good shape..
stan..
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